Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Crocheted Goblet Wrist Warmer Tutorial

Hello.....good evening! 

Wow, I am soooooo tired right now, need to hit the sack! lol ;)

I can't believe how long it took me to get these photos together for this tutorial....first of all I am not all that computer savvy so when I was taking these pictures, I also heard my children saying, "Are you done yet?" lol Well, to begin with they were watching T.V. and I figured since no one paying any attention to me I would get this tutorial completed....but....you know, a preteen and a hyperactive 6 year old do not sit tight when their mother isn't at their beck and call! ;) Anyway...here it is, hope you enjoy making this as much as I did! .


Abbreviations:
CH – Chain:
ST (S) – Stitch (es)
SL ST – Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet:
FDSC – Foundation Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
FL (O) – Front Loop Only
BL (O) – Back Loop Only
FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
FPDC2tog – Front Post Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together
Asterisk (*): Repeat


Special Stitch – Picot: This picot will be worked in two stitches: Single crochet into one stitch, chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain of chain 3, SC into the next stitch; picot made.*


Crochet Hook: USG6/4.00 MM, increase by 2 STS for a larger size
Yarn: Any 4 ply yarn, Merino/ Wool/ Worsted Weight/ Medium Weight (For this project I used Caron Simply Soft Acrylic, Medium Weight Yarn in Grey Heather.)
Gauge: Size depends on STS used when starting project on Row 1: i.e. 27 STS (S), 29 STS (M), and 31 STS (L).
Pattern: This pattern will be worked in one piece beginning at the cuff. 

Cuff:
CH (27, 29, 31)
Row 1: SC into the 2 CH from hook, CH 3, SL ST into the 1st CH of the CH3, SC into the next ST. *SC into the next ST, CH 3, SL ST into the 1st ST of CH 3, SC into the next ST*; end with (13, 14, 15) picot.
Chain the amount of STS needed.
SC into 2nd st from hook.
Chain 3
Sl st into the 1st CH of the Ch 3
SC into the next stitch, repeat until end of row.



Row 2: On reverse side of the picot row, you will skip the ST where last picot was made and you will SC into the next ST (hide your tail as you go), SC into every stitch around and SL ST to top of first SC. (26, 28, 30)

SC into each ST around.
This is how  it looks at the end of the row.

Join with Sl St into the first SC made.

This is how it looks when joined.

Row 3: CH 1, SC (counts as 1st SC here & throughout) in BLO of every ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)

SC into the back loop of previous row.

Row 4: CH 2 (counts as first HDC here and throughout), HDC into every ST around and SL ST to top of CH 2. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Chain 2

HDC in each ST around.

Row 5: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 3, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 3, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 3; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Chain 1

Begin SC into the front loop on previous Row  3, you will skip the FL that is under the first CH 1.




SC made...will make a nice pop out texture.

Make a regular SC into the next st. as you go, keep track of the sts by making sure you skip one FL and leave one FL unworked. 


You should end with a SC in FL of last stitch on Row 3.

Row 6: CH 1, SC into every stitch around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 7: CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC in each stitch around, join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (26, 28, 30 DC)
Chain 3

DC into each stitch around and join.

Row 8-13: CH 3, FPDC in next ST, *DC in next ST, FPDC in next stitch*, end with a FPDC in the last stitch, SL ST to top of CH 3 to join. (26, 28, 30 DC) I stopped on Row 13 however you can repeat this row until you have reached your desired length or stop at any row before Row 14 if you prefer a shorter cuff.
Wrist:
Row 14-15: CH 1, SC in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (24, 26, 28 SC)
Row 16: CH 1, SC in BLO in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 17: CH 2 (counts as first HDC here & throughout), HDC in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 2 to join. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Row 18: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 17, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 17, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 17; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)Row 19-20: CH 1, SC in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (26, 28, 30 SC)
Hand:
Row 21: CH 3, DC in each ST around, join with SS to top of CH 3.  (26, 28, 30 DC)
Row 22: CH3, work 2FPDC in the next DC, *DC in next ST, 2FPDC in the next ST*, end with 2FPDC in the last ST; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)
Row 23-24: CH 3, FPDC in the next 2 STS, *DC in the next ST, FPDC in the next 2 STS*, end with FPDC in the last St; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)

Working Thumb Hole:
Row 25: CH 6, skip the next 3 STS, FPDC in each of the next 2 STS, *DC in next ST, FPDC in the next two STS*, join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)



Row 26: CH 3, 3 DC into the next 3 STS, FPDC in the next 2 STS, *DC in next ST, FPDC in next 2 STS*, SL ST to top of CH 3 to join. (39, 42, 45 DC)

Finishing Hand:
Row 27: CH 3, *FPDC2tog, DC in next stitch*, end with FPDC2tog; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (26, 28, 30 DC)
Row 28: CH 1, SC in each ST around, SS to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 29: CH 1, SC in BLO in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 30: CH 2, HDC in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 2 to join. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Row 31: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 29, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 29, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 29; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 32: CH 1, SC in each ST around, SS to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC) Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 


So, I have made quite a few wrist warmers for my sisters and nieces....they have really liked them and they can't wait to use them!  We still have hot weather here where I live at and it's nice but we need a cool down lol ;)




If you have any questions about this pattern, please let me know! Thanks for stopping by! ;) 

(Please respect this copyright. This is my original pattern, please do not copy, submit, or sell this pattern as your own. You are able to sell your completed wrist warmer if desired.)