Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Mirely Textured Mittens


Today I am making a pair of mittens for my niece who absolutely loves me! I named these mittens after her since she enjoys and wears everything I make her. Perhaps this is the reason I dote on Mirely so much! lol ;) Mirely is 10 years old and loves pink therefore the pink mittens pictured below. For this pattern I am using a bright green yarn to make it easier to present to you while giving the intructions. At the same time, these pair of green mittens will be for my nephew. And just a quick reminder, let you imagination run...use all the colors you would like to use, in alternating rows, and etc...there is no limit to what you can create!


What you will need is:
  • Yarn - I used my favorite, Caron Simply Soft, 4 ply, medium weight, 100 % Acrylic Yarn because it's machine washable and dryable...lol You just got to have that with kids :) I jus don't have time to be wrorrying about laying flat to dry and all that nonsense lol
  • 5.5 MM Crochet hook or I/9
  • Yarn Needle for weaving
  • Scissors
Gauge: This pattern has a rich texture to it and fits snug on the hand. If you to make the mitten smaller, reduce the pattern by two rows. You will do this by eliminating Rows 10 & 11. If you need to make the mitten thinner or wider, give or take a DC on Row 1 of pattern.  If you need to make the thumb shorter, reduce as many rows needed after the increase on Row 2. If you need to make the thumb thinner or wider, give or take away a SC on Row 1. You can also use a smaller hooks to obtain gauge needed and use the same pattern provided below.

Abbreviations:
  • MR: Magic Ring
  • Sl St: Slip Stitch
  • St: Stitch
  • SC: Single Crochet
  • DC: Double Crochet
  • FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet
  • CS: Crrab Stitch (This is a Single Crochet worked back words meaning, instead of crocheting to the left you will single crochet to the right.) Here is a link (this person did not ask me to post this video, I used it to learn the crab stitch): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_DPQw2Dykg
  • Aterisk *: Repeat instructions.
  • Whip Stitching is also going to be used when sewing on thumb onto thumb hole.

Pattern: (Note: This pattern will be worked in the round beginning with the mitten. The second part to this pattern is making the thumb seperatly and then sewing on the the thumb hole with a yarn needle.)

Mitten: Make 2
Row 1: In MR, ch 2 (this doesn't count as first DC here and through out), make 11 DC into the MR, pull loose end snug to tighten ring,  sl st to top of first DC to join (not the ch 2, this will give you an extra st). (11 DC)



Row 2: Ch 2, make a DC into the same st as join, make a FPDC onto that same stitch. *DC into the next st, FPDC onto that same st*, sl st to the top of first DC to join. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 3: Ch 2, *FPDC into the same st as join, DC into the next st*, sl st to the top of first DC to join. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 4: Ch 2, *DC into the next st as join, FPDC into the next st*, sl st to the top of first DC to join. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 5: Repeat Row 3. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 6: Repeat Row 4. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 7: Repeat Row 3. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 8: Repeat Row 4. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 9: Repeat Row 3. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)

Teen/ Adult:
Row 10: Repeat Row 4. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 11: Repeat Row 3. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)

Child/ Teen/ Adult continued:
Row 12: Repeat Row 4. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 13: Repeat Row 3. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 14: Ch 6, skip 3 sts from join and FPDC into fourth DC from hook, *DC into the next st, FPDC into the next st*, make 1 DC into the same st as join (this extra DC will be used to sew the thumb onto the mitten so that there won't be a gap when the whip stitching takes place), sl st to top of the 3rd ch of first ch 6. (10 FPDC, 10 DC)
Row 15: Ch 2, Make 3 DC intot previous Ch 3 space, DC into the next FPDC, *FPDC into the next st, DC into the following st (when you come to the last two stitches, you will DC2tog, reducing the stitch count back to 22 sts vs 23 sts)*, sl st to top of first DC to join. (22 sts)
Row 16: Ch 2, *DC into the next st as join, FPDC into the next st*, sl st to the top of first DC to join. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 17: Ch 2, *FPDC into the same st as join, DC into the next st*, sl st to the top of first DC to join. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 18: Repeat Row 16. (11 DC, 11 FPDC)
Row 19-22: Ch 2, DC into the same st as join, FPDC into the next st, *DC into the next st, FPDC into the following st*, sl st to top of first DC to join. (11 FPDC, 11 DC)
Row 23: Ch 1, SC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (22 SC)
Row 24: Ch 1, CS into every stitch around. Remember, this CS - Crab Stitch is a SC made into every stitch going in a round to the right of the work instead of the left as usual. The picturre that I listed below  is the best example that I could give other than the above link of the CS. (22 CS)



Fasten off and weave in any ends....now to the thumb.

Thumb: Make 2

Child:
Row 1: In MR ch 1 (doesn't count as first SC here and through out) and make 4 SC into ring, pull the loose end snug and sl st to top of forst DC to join. (4 SC)
Row 2: Ch 1, make 2 SC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (8 SC)
Row 3-8: Ch 1, SC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (8 SC)
Row 9-10: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join and 1 SC into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (10 SC)

Teen/ Adult:
Rows 10-12: Ch 1, SC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join.
fasten off and leave a 18" tail for sewing onto the mitten. (10 SC)

Now to complete the mitten!! I love this part! :)

Sew the thumb onto the thumb hole by using a whip stitch with the yarn needle. When sewing, attempt to match the stitches to each other on each side. When you come to the place where the three DC's were made into the gap, go behind the DC post, then come towards the front, and into the stitch on the thumb, this will ensure a hidden seam and won't pull at the yarn on the mitten. To avoid any gaps, also whip stitch into the back of the extra DC made before when crocheting the mitten. When completed, weave in any loose ends.

 
 
My neice wants a heart applique added to the back of the mitten...so this is what I will do later on today. I will post the results of the finished product on my next posting where I will provide you with a pattern on how to make fingerless gloves. Don't stop at appliques...remember you can add pom poms to the side, bows, and buttons.

I do hope you enjoy making these mittens, I love them! As with everything that I crochet lol ;) Happy Hooking! If you need any help or have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask! Thanks for stopping by and have a blessed day!






Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Roses are red......

OK, so....I have to apologize because on my last post I was a little rushed, you know how days like those can be. :) So, it came to my attention that my stitch count was off so on the His and Hers Better Half Beanie Post; I corrected those today! Instead of 30 sts there should be a total of 60 sts at the end.  I apologize about any confusions.

So I know I said I loved the cold weather but I am kinda missing spring with it's nice buds hinting a promising bloom for the summer. Isn't it always that way...lol

Since I missed those bright and cheery days, I made me something to pick me up! My color choice says otherwise but my wardrobe consists of mostly grays and black (to hide some problem areas ;) which is the reason why I chose gray but the photo editor I used altered the color to look like a red. For future reference, red and the light blue would look good together too...





Terminology:
MR - Magic Ring
St - Stitch
Sl St - Slip Stitch
SC - Single Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
Ch - Chain

Items Needed:
Yarn (4 ply, medium weight yarn. I used Red Hart Super Saver in Aruba Sea and Caron Simply Soft in Heather Gray)
Yarn Needle
6.00 MM Crochet Hook
Scissors
*Optional: Glue gun and glue sticks

Unisex Beanie:
Row 1: In MR, Ch 2 (doesn't count as first DC here and throughout), make 12 DC, sl st to top of first DC to join (pull MR string tight to secure, you can hide the end while you crochet along or wait until beanie is completed to weave in the end). (12 DC)
Row 2: CH 1, make 2 SC (doesn't count as first SC here and throughout) into same st as join, make 2 SC into each st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (24 SC)
Row 3: Ch 2, make a DC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (24 DC)
Row 4: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make a SC into the next st, *make 2 SC in the next st, make 1 SC into the following st*, sl st to top of first SC to join. (36 SC)
Row 5: Ch 2, make a DC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (36 DC)
Row 6: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make 1 SC into each of the next two sts, *make 2 SC into the next st, make 1 SC into each of the next two sts*, sl st to top of first SC. (48 DC)
Row 7: Ch 2, make 1 DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (48 SC)
Row 8: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make one SC into the next 3 sts, *make 2 SC into the next st, make 1 SC into each of the next three sts*, sl st to top of the first SC to join. (60 SC)
Row 9: Ch 2, DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of the first DC to join. (60 DC)
Row 10: Ch 1, SC into the same st as join and SC into each st around, sl st to top of the first SC to join. (60 SC)
Row 11: Ch 2, DC into the same st as join and DC into each st around, sl st to top of the first DC to join. (60 DC)
Row 12: Repeat Row 10.
Row 13: Repeat Row 11.
Row 14: Repeat Row 10.
Row 15: Repeat Row 11.
Row 16: Repeat Row 10.
Row 17: Repeat Row 11.
Row 18: Repeat Row 10.
Fasten off and weave in any loose ends.

Rose Embellishment:
I used a beautiful rose that is quite easy to make....I loved it!
Here is the link: http://www.pompomemporium.com/content/crocheted-flowers-roses
I hot glued the rose to the side of the hat.....you can sew it on if you prefer, I just don't have the patience for that lol ;).



I love, love, love, roses....so heres a beanie we can wear with a little pizazz....enjoy!

Naomi :)






Monday, October 15, 2012

Late again...

This morning I woke my oldest up an hour earlier than normal because she always seems to miss the bus for school. Hmmmm, guess what it didn't make a difference. So, I wasn't dressed, my hair was a mess, and I scratched the surface of my teeth to make it out the door in time so she wouldn't be late. We were late anyway....the congestion at the drop off line is terrible! ugh...I hate waiting there in line, waiting for our turn, and some parents really need some common sense! lol (uhmm, who's the late one ;) Any way...guess we'll try this again tomorrow.

Last night, I made some hats for a couple who's husband recently had a birthday. I made him a hat but I decided to make her a matching one too :) It's full of texture and sits real nice on the head. My husband and I tried them out....so since I made it up as I went, here's what I came up with.



For both Hats you will need:
  • 2 skeins of same color yarn (Used Red Heart Super Saver Economy in Windsor Blue, 100% Acrylic, bought at Walmart) *I was able to use one skein of yarn for both of my hats, I added an extra skein just in case your tension is a little different than mine*
  • 6.00 MM hook
  • Yarn needle
  • Scissors
  • Buttons or other embellishments

Abbreviations:
Sl St - Slip stitch
SC - Single Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
MR - Magic Ring
FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet



Men's Better Half Beanie:
Row 1: In MR, Ch 1 (doesn't count as first SC here and througout), make 12 SC into MR, sl st to top of first SC. (12 SC)
Row 2: Ch 2 (doesn't count as first DC here and throughout), make 2 DC into the same st as join and into each st around, sl st to first DC made. (24 DC)
Row 3: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make a SC into the next st, *make 2 SC into the next st, make 1 SC into the following st*, sl st to top of first SC to join. (36 DC)
Row 4: Ch 2, make 1 DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (36 DC)
Row 5: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make a SC into the next 2 sts, *make 2 SC into the next st, make a SC into each of the next 2 sts, sl st to top of first SC to join. (48 SC)
Row 6: Ch 2, make 1 DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (48 DC)
Row 7: Ch 1, make 2 SC in same st as join, make a SC into each of the next 3 sts, *make 2 sc into the next st, make  a SC into each of the next 3 sts*, sl st to top of first SC to join. (60 SC)
Row 8: Ch 2, make a DC into the same st as join and make a DC into every st around. (60 DC)
Row 9: Ch 2, make a FPDC into the same DC, make a regular DC into the next st. *FPDC into the next st, FPDC into the following st*, sl st to top of first FPDC to join. (30 FPDC & 30 DC)
Row 10: Ch 2, make a DC into the the same st as join, make a FPDC into the next st, make a DC into the next st, make a FPDC into the following st, sl st to join to top of first DC. (30 DC & 30 FPDC)
Row 11: Repeat Row 9.
Row 12: Repeat Row 10.
Row 13: Repeat Row 9.
Row 14: Repeat Row 10.
Row 15: Repeat Row 9.
Row 16: Repeat Row 10.
Row 17: Ch 1, SC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (60 SC)
Fasten off and weave in any ends.



Woman's Better Half Beanie:
Row 1: In MR, Ch 1 (doesn't count as first SC here and througout), make 12 SC into MR, sl st to top of first SC. (12 SC)
Row 2: Ch 2 (doesn't count as first DC here and throughout), make 2 DC into the same st as join and into each st around, sl st to first DC made. (24 DC)
Row 3: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make a SC into the next st, *make 2 SC into the next st, make 1 SC into the following st*, sl st to top of first SC to join. (36 DC)
Row 4: Ch 2, make 1 DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (36 DC)
Row 5: Ch 1, make 2 SC into the same st as join, make a SC into the next 2 sts, *make 2 SC into the next st, make a SC into each of the next 2 sts, sl st to top of first SC to join. (48 SC)
Row 6: Ch 2, make 1 DC into the same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first DC to join. (48 DC)
Row 7: Ch 1, make 2 SC in same st as join, make a SC into each of the next 3 sts, *make 2 sc into the next st, make a SC into each of the next 3 sts*, sl st to top of first SC to join. (60 SC)
Row 8: Ch 2, make a DC into the same st as join and make a DC into every st around. (60 DC)
Row 9-16: Ch 2, make a FPDC into the same DC, make a regular DC into the next st. *FPDC into the next st, FPDC into the following st*, sl st to top of first FPDC to join. (30 FPDC & 30 DC)
Row 17: Ch 1, SC into same st as join and into every st around, sl st to top of first SC to join. (60 SC)
Fasten off and weave in any ends.

The hat is lovely and it keeps your head very warm. I do encourage you to try this for yourself and spouse or as a gift to a close pair of couples you may know. Christmas is just around the corner so start getting knotty!

Thanks so much for stopping by today and enjoy the rest of your day!

Naomi ;)

Friday, October 12, 2012

The cold weather is here and oh my goodness!!!

Hellllooo my lovelies! I have great news! The cold weather is here and oh my goodness, I love it!!

Love drink hot tea, hot cocoa, hot chai tea, hot...blah blah blah, you get the point lol! ;)

Any who....I started making hats and I came across this lady whom I absolutely love because she taught me how to crochet! Teresa from You Tube...well if you don't know her, I love a hat that she taught everyone who watched her video how to make. It is absolutly delightful! I love the puff stitches and its so simple.

I altered the pattern somewhat, not too much, just the brim of the beanie and I also made it sort of slouchy by adding a few more rows....it's cuuuttte! I also used embellishments of all sorts but my favorite is the classic button! What can I say, I am a fan! sigh...

Here is the link to her video on You Tube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8lLMHpt1Sw
Just for future reference, Teresa/ Crochet Geek did not in any way ask me to post this. This is all my doing so please no negative feedback towards her! Thanks in advance!

Here is another link to her blog with the written instructions for the Puff Stitch Hat Pattern:
http://crochet-mania.blogspot.com/2009/03/puff-stitch-crochet-hat.html#!/2009/03/puff-stitch-crochet-hat.html

Slouchy Puff Stitch Hat:
So when you follow the directions on her video, she will stop at row 10....keep going until you reach Row 14 or 15.

To start the ribbing (do not go in continous rounds in a spiral form):
Row 16 - 26: CH 1 (this does NOT count as the first SC here and throughout), SC into the same st as join, 2 sc into the next CH 1 space, *SC into the next st, 2 SC into the next CH 1 space*, once completed sl st to the top of the first SC made, not the CH 1. (72 SC's total)

Fasten off and weave in any ends, you can add the buttons at this time to the hat or any other embellishment of your choice!

You can make the ribbing thin but I like mine thick so thus the 10 SC rows...I am a butt for spiraling rounds, it drives me crazy perhaps because I am dyslexic and I get dizzy! lol

Well, I do hope you enjoy making this hat...I sure did! Now off to listen to some music ♪♫♪♫....thanks so much for stopping by and have a blessed week! ;)





Naomi ☺






Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Crocheted Goblet Wrist Warmer Tutorial

Hello.....good evening! 

Wow, I am soooooo tired right now, need to hit the sack! lol ;)

I can't believe how long it took me to get these photos together for this tutorial....first of all I am not all that computer savvy so when I was taking these pictures, I also heard my children saying, "Are you done yet?" lol Well, to begin with they were watching T.V. and I figured since no one paying any attention to me I would get this tutorial completed....but....you know, a preteen and a hyperactive 6 year old do not sit tight when their mother isn't at their beck and call! ;) Anyway...here it is, hope you enjoy making this as much as I did! .


Abbreviations:
CH – Chain:
ST (S) – Stitch (es)
SL ST – Slip Stitch
SC – Single Crochet:
FDSC – Foundation Single Crochet
HDC – Half Double Crochet
DC – Double Crochet
FL (O) – Front Loop Only
BL (O) – Back Loop Only
FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
FPDC2tog – Front Post Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together
Asterisk (*): Repeat


Special Stitch – Picot: This picot will be worked in two stitches: Single crochet into one stitch, chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain of chain 3, SC into the next stitch; picot made.*


Crochet Hook: USG6/4.00 MM, increase by 2 STS for a larger size
Yarn: Any 4 ply yarn, Merino/ Wool/ Worsted Weight/ Medium Weight (For this project I used Caron Simply Soft Acrylic, Medium Weight Yarn in Grey Heather.)
Gauge: Size depends on STS used when starting project on Row 1: i.e. 27 STS (S), 29 STS (M), and 31 STS (L).
Pattern: This pattern will be worked in one piece beginning at the cuff. 

Cuff:
CH (27, 29, 31)
Row 1: SC into the 2 CH from hook, CH 3, SL ST into the 1st CH of the CH3, SC into the next ST. *SC into the next ST, CH 3, SL ST into the 1st ST of CH 3, SC into the next ST*; end with (13, 14, 15) picot.
Chain the amount of STS needed.
SC into 2nd st from hook.
Chain 3
Sl st into the 1st CH of the Ch 3
SC into the next stitch, repeat until end of row.



Row 2: On reverse side of the picot row, you will skip the ST where last picot was made and you will SC into the next ST (hide your tail as you go), SC into every stitch around and SL ST to top of first SC. (26, 28, 30)

SC into each ST around.
This is how  it looks at the end of the row.

Join with Sl St into the first SC made.

This is how it looks when joined.

Row 3: CH 1, SC (counts as 1st SC here & throughout) in BLO of every ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)

SC into the back loop of previous row.

Row 4: CH 2 (counts as first HDC here and throughout), HDC into every ST around and SL ST to top of CH 2. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Chain 2

HDC in each ST around.

Row 5: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 3, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 3, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 3; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Chain 1

Begin SC into the front loop on previous Row  3, you will skip the FL that is under the first CH 1.




SC made...will make a nice pop out texture.

Make a regular SC into the next st. as you go, keep track of the sts by making sure you skip one FL and leave one FL unworked. 


You should end with a SC in FL of last stitch on Row 3.

Row 6: CH 1, SC into every stitch around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 7: CH 3 (counts as first DC here and throughout), DC in each stitch around, join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (26, 28, 30 DC)
Chain 3

DC into each stitch around and join.

Row 8-13: CH 3, FPDC in next ST, *DC in next ST, FPDC in next stitch*, end with a FPDC in the last stitch, SL ST to top of CH 3 to join. (26, 28, 30 DC) I stopped on Row 13 however you can repeat this row until you have reached your desired length or stop at any row before Row 14 if you prefer a shorter cuff.
Wrist:
Row 14-15: CH 1, SC in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (24, 26, 28 SC)
Row 16: CH 1, SC in BLO in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 17: CH 2 (counts as first HDC here & throughout), HDC in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 2 to join. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Row 18: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 17, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 17, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 17; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)Row 19-20: CH 1, SC in each ST around, join with SL ST to top of CH 1.  (26, 28, 30 SC)
Hand:
Row 21: CH 3, DC in each ST around, join with SS to top of CH 3.  (26, 28, 30 DC)
Row 22: CH3, work 2FPDC in the next DC, *DC in next ST, 2FPDC in the next ST*, end with 2FPDC in the last ST; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)
Row 23-24: CH 3, FPDC in the next 2 STS, *DC in the next ST, FPDC in the next 2 STS*, end with FPDC in the last St; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)

Working Thumb Hole:
Row 25: CH 6, skip the next 3 STS, FPDC in each of the next 2 STS, *DC in next ST, FPDC in the next two STS*, join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (39, 42, 45 DC)



Row 26: CH 3, 3 DC into the next 3 STS, FPDC in the next 2 STS, *DC in next ST, FPDC in next 2 STS*, SL ST to top of CH 3 to join. (39, 42, 45 DC)

Finishing Hand:
Row 27: CH 3, *FPDC2tog, DC in next stitch*, end with FPDC2tog; join with SL ST to top of CH 3. (26, 28, 30 DC)
Row 28: CH 1, SC in each ST around, SS to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 29: CH 1, SC in BLO in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 30: CH 2, HDC in each ST around, SL ST to top of CH 2 to join. (26, 28, 30 HDC)
Row 31: CH 1, SC in 2nd CH in FL of Row 29, SC in next ST, *SC in FL of next CH on Row 29, SC into the next ST* end with SC in FL of last ST on Row 29; join with SL ST to top of CH 1. (26, 28, 30 SC)
Row 32: CH 1, SC in each ST around, SS to top of CH 1 to join. (26, 28, 30 SC) Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 


So, I have made quite a few wrist warmers for my sisters and nieces....they have really liked them and they can't wait to use them!  We still have hot weather here where I live at and it's nice but we need a cool down lol ;)




If you have any questions about this pattern, please let me know! Thanks for stopping by! ;) 

(Please respect this copyright. This is my original pattern, please do not copy, submit, or sell this pattern as your own. You are able to sell your completed wrist warmer if desired.)